AUTHOR=Draga Paweł , Rokowski Robert , Sutor Alexander , Pandurevic Dominik , Michailov Michail Lubomirov 

TITLE=Importance of shoulder girdle and finger flexor muscle endurance in advanced male climbers

JOURNAL=Frontiers in Sports and Active Living

VOLUME=Volume 6 - 2024

YEAR=2024

URL=https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/sports-and-active-living/articles/10.3389/fspor.2024.1410636

DOI=10.3389/fspor.2024.1410636

ISSN=2624-9367

ABSTRACT=(1)This study aimed to: (a) assess the relationships between climbing performance and finger
and shoulder girdle muscle endurance; and (b) provide evidence on the validity of the specialized
exercise tests used for the purpose.
(2)Materials and Methods: 28 male sport climbers (climbing ability 23 ± 2.43 IRCRA scale)
performed four tests for muscle failure, including two-finger hang tests (using 2.5 and 4 cm
holds) and two variants of pull-up exercises (classical pull-ups and a combination of dynamic and
isometric actions – the so-called Edlinger). Climbing performance and test results were subjected
to correlation, taxonomic analysis, and regression analysis.
(3)Results: The correlations between the results from all tests and climbing performance were
notably strong (r between 0.54 and 0.61) and statistically significant (p < 0.05). The taxonomic
analysis indicated that the two variants of each test type reflect two different latent variables
2.5 cm and 4 cm finger hang durations were highly correlated (r = 0.76, p < 0.01). A similar
correlation was found between the results from the pull-up tests (r = 0.72, p < 0.01). Thus, the
finger hang and pull-up test results were determined to a high extent (43% and 49%, respectively)
by factors that cannot be assessed when only one test of each type is used. The regression
model of the two-finger tests allowed individual endurance profiles to be assessed.
(4)Conclusions: The muscular endurance of the elbow flexors and shoulder girdle muscles
predicts climbing performance within the specific sport level studied to a comparable degree as finger flexor endurance.The use of two variants of a test intended to assess one physical ability
provided important details on a climber’s fitness.