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ORIGINAL RESEARCH article

Front. Pharmacol.

Sec. Ethnopharmacology

This article is part of the Research TopicNutraceuticals Modulation for Oxidative Stress in Disease and Health: Volume IIView all 5 articles

HARNESSING RED GRAPE POMACE EXTRACT FOR SUSTAINABLE BROAD-SPECTRUM PHOTOPROTECTION IN A RECONSTRUCTED HUMAN EPIDERMIS MODEL

Provisionally accepted
Antonella  SmeriglioAntonella Smeriglio1*Marta  ManganoMarta Mangano1Mariarosaria  IngegneriMariarosaria Ingegneri1Annarita  La NeveAnnarita La Neve1Chiara  BrennaChiara Brenna2Luca  MastracciLuca Mastracci3Francesco  MerlinoFrancesco Merlino4Giancarlo  TononGiancarlo Tonon5Diego  BoscoDiego Bosco6Domenico  TrombettaDomenico Trombetta1
  • 1University of Messina, Department of chemical, Biological, Pharmaceutical and Environmental Sciences (ChiBiOFarAm)), Messina, Italy
  • 2Prigen srl, Viale Ortles 22/4, 20139 Milan, Italy., Milan, Italy
  • 3Pathology Unit, Department of Surgical Sciences and Integrated Diagnostics (DISC), University of Genova,16132, Genoa, Italy
  • 4Univerlab srl, Viale Ortles 22/4, 20139, Milan, Italy
  • 5Prigen srl, Viale Ortles 22/4, 20139, Milan, Italy
  • 6Italbiotec s.r.l. Piazza della Trivulziana, 4/A 20126, Milan, Italy

The final, formatted version of the article will be published soon.

Red grape pomace, a major by-product of the winemaking industry, represents a sustainable source of bioactive polyphenols with high nutraceutical and cosmetic potential. In this study, a standardized grape pomace extract (GPE) was developed from quality-controlled dried pomace, compliant with European Pharmacopoeia requirements for heavy metals, microbiological purity, and residual moisture. Phytochemical profiling by LC-DAD-ESI-MS/MS revealed a complex composition dominated by anthocyanins—primarily malvidin-3-O-glucoside—alongside lignans, stilbenes, and flavonols. The extract showed a high total phenolic content (2.64 g GAE/100 g) and exhibited strong, concentration-dependent antioxidant activity, with the highest efficacy in FRAP and ORAC assays, and significant anti-inflammatory effects in protein denaturation and protease inhibition tests. GPE demonstrated excellent photochemical stability and was incorporated into a lipid-based cosmetic formulation (SS + GPE) to assess its safety and photoprotective efficacy in a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model exposed to UVA (26 J/cm²) and UVB (1.5 J/cm²) radiation. Both GPE and SS + GPE treatments markedly reduced ROS, NO, and IL-1α production (up to 60–65% reduction vs. irradiated control) while maintaining cell viability above 90%. Histological analysis further confirmed the structural protection of the epidermis, showing fewer dyskeratotic cells, restored intercellular cohesion, and normalization of keratinization. This is a provisional file, not the final typeset article Overall, these results demonstrate that GPE is a safe, photostable, and multifunctional bioactive extract capable of counteracting UV-induced oxidative and inflammatory damage. This study provides a comprehensive and sustainable strategy for the upcycling of red grape pomace into high value dermocosmetic formulations with proven broad-spectrum photoprotective efficacy.

Keywords: anti-inflammatory activity, antioxidant activity, Circular economy, dermocosmetic formulation, Grape pomace extract, Photoprotection, Polyphenols, Reconstructed human epidermis

Received: 11 Nov 2025; Accepted: 02 Dec 2025.

Copyright: © 2025 Smeriglio, Mangano, Ingegneri, La Neve, Brenna, Mastracci, Merlino, Tonon, Bosco and Trombetta. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) or licensor are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.

* Correspondence: Antonella Smeriglio

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